The good things of Collioure: the colors, the rainwater pipes, the sea, the castle, the Sanch procession, the anchovies and most of all lunch at restaurant le 5ème peché (18 Rue Fraternité).
Don’t miss out on that! Had the best food there from the whole Pyrénées Orientales. Masashi Iijima is the chef there. He’s a young Japanese chef with funny hair and lots of talent. The restaurant is very small and has no outside area so it’s best to reserve. The menu is as small as the restaurant, so quite a limited choice but the food is fresher then fresh, healthy and good! It’s mostly a subtile and elegant mix of Japanese and regional food. I’m not a vegetable kind of man but Masashi managed to get me eating some kind of green leaves and stealing the leaves out of the other plates at my table as well. The fish was also memorable!
In a whole other league, I really appreciated the tapas from La cuisine comptoir (2, rue Colbert). It’s a tiny tapas bar in a backstreet with tasty, authentic and fresh Catalan tapas (and a British owner/cook, Victoria). You can eat there or take away. The atmosphere is nice, very laid back.
The bad things of Collioure: no parking, too many tourists, the Tramontane wind, tourist prices everywhere, the lady at the modern art museum who had no clue how to smile and did I already mention NO parking!